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<title>Perfumer</title>

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<span id="openzim-page-title" class="mw-page-title-main"><span class="mw-page-title-main">Perfumer</span></span>

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</style><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">"Fumer" redirects here. For the bone of the lower limb, see <a href="Femur" title="Femur">Femur</a>.</div>

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<p>A <b>perfumer</b> is an expert on creating <a href="Perfume" title="Perfume">perfume</a> compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a <i>nose</i> (<a href="French_language" title="French language">French</a>: <i lang="fr">nez</i>) due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. The perfumer is effectively an artist<sup id="cite_ref-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each one alone or in combination with others. They must also know how each reveals itself over time. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of <a href="Flavorist" title="Flavorist">flavourists</a>, who compose smells and <a href="Flavourant" class="mw-redirect" title="Flavourant">flavourants</a> for commercial food products.

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Training">Training</h2></div>

<p>Most past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art, and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as technicians (in charge of blending formulas) or chemists. These people were usually given temporary jobs in the industry. A direct entrance into the profession is rare, and those who do typically enter it through family contacts. Such apprenticeships last around three years.

</p><p>Until recently, professional schools open to the public did not exist. In 1970 <a href="ISIPCA" title="ISIPCA">ISIPCA</a> became the first school in perfumery. Candidates must pass a demanding entrance examination, and must have taken <a href="University" title="University">university</a>-level courses in <a href="Organic_chemistry" title="Organic chemistry">organic chemistry</a>.

</p><p>Since 1998 PerfumersWorld's school<sup id="cite_ref-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-3"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> has offered formal and informal training through university courses at <a href="King_Mongkut's_University_of_Technology_Thonburi" title="King Mongkut's University of Technology Thonburi">King Mongkut's University of Technology Thonburi</a> Biotechnology faculty, at <a href="Chulalongkorn_University" title="Chulalongkorn University">Chulalongkorn University</a> Pharmacy faculty and through online courses and private workshops in the United States, UK, Dubai, Hong Kong, Germany, New Zealand, and Thailand.

</p><p>More recently, in 2002, another school was born, the Grasse Institute of Perfumery (G.I.P). Similarly here, candidates must have a foundation in chemistry or pharmacy to be accepted as students. <a href="Grasse" title="Grasse">Grasse</a> itself is a world-renowned perfume centre.<sup id="cite_ref-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>

</p><p><a href="Givaudan" title="Givaudan">Givaudan</a>, <a href="International_Flavors_and_Fragrances" class="mw-redirect" title="International Flavors and Fragrances">International Flavors and Fragrances</a> (IFF) and <a href="Symrise" title="Symrise">Symrise</a> operate their own perfumery schools, but students must be employees and recommended by their managers. The <a href="University_of_Plymouth" title="University of Plymouth">University of Plymouth</a> (UK) offers a BA (Bachelor of Arts) course in Business & Perfumery.

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Employment">Employment</h2></div>

<p>Most perfumers are employed by large fragrance corporations including <a href="Mane_SA" title="Mane SA">Mane</a>, <a href="Robertet" class="mw-redirect" title="Robertet">Robertet</a>, <a href="Firmenich" title="Firmenich">Firmenich</a>, <a href="International_Flavors_and_Fragrances" class="mw-redirect" title="International Flavors and Fragrances">IFF</a>, <a href="Givaudan" title="Givaudan">Givaudan</a>, <a href="Takasago_International_Corporation" title="Takasago International Corporation">Takasago</a>, and <a href="Symrise" title="Symrise">Symrise</a>. Some work exclusively for a perfume house or in their own companies, but these are not as common.

</p><p>The perfumer typically begins a project with a <i>brief</i> by their employer or a customer, typically a fashion house or other large <a href="Corporation" title="Corporation">corporation</a>. This will contain the specifications for the desired perfume, and will describe in often poetic or abstract terms what it should smell like or what feelings it should evoke, along with a maximum price per litre of the perfume oil concentrate. This allowance, along with the intended application of the perfume, will determine what aromatic ingredients will be used in the composition.

</p><p>The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple mixtures and will attempt to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief. After presenting the perfume mixtures to the customers, the perfumer may "win" the brief with their approval. They proceed to work with the customer, often with the direction provided by a panel or artistic director, which guides and edits the modifications on the composition of the perfume. This process typically spans several months to several years, going through many iterations, and may involve cultural and public surveys to tailor a perfume to a particular market. The composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a <i>functional fragrance</i> (<a href="Shampoo" title="Shampoo">shampoos</a>, <a href="Make-up" class="mw-redirect" title="Make-up">make-up</a>, <a href="Detergent" title="Detergent">detergents</a>, <a href="Car" title="Car">car</a> interiors, etc.) or marketed directly to the public as a <i>fine fragrance</i>.

</p><p>Alternatively, the perfumer may simply be inspired to create a perfume and produce something that later becomes marketable or wins a brief. This is more common in smaller or independent perfume houses.<sup id="cite_ref-Burr_5-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Burr-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Credits">Credits</h2></div>

<p>For a long time, perfumes were associated with the brand name on the bottle.<sup id="cite_ref-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In 2000, <a href="Fr%C3%A9d%C3%A9ric_Malle" title="Frédéric Malle">Frédéric Malle</a> was the first to include on the bottles of the perfumes he launched the names of the perfumers who composed them, and who were considered by his house as their authors. In the following decade, perfumers became an integral part of fragrance messaging and were increasingly placed in the spotlight.

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="List_of_notable_perfumers">List of notable perfumers</h2></div>

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<ul><li><a href="Henri_Alm%C3%A9ras" title="Henri Alméras">Henri Alméras</a></li>

<li><a href="Nicolas_de_Barry" title="Nicolas de Barry">Nicolas de Barry</a></li>

<li><a href="Ernest_Beaux" title="Ernest Beaux">Ernest Beaux</a></li>

<li><a href="Calice_Becker" title="Calice Becker">Calice Becker</a></li>

<li><a href="Jean_Carles" title="Jean Carles">Jean Carles</a></li>

<li><a href="Jacques_Cavallier" title="Jacques Cavallier">Jacques Cavallier</a></li>

<li><a href="Germaine_Cellier" title="Germaine Cellier">Germaine Cellier</a></li>

<li><a href="Fran%C3%A7ois_Coty" title="François Coty">François Coty</a></li>

<li><a href="Fran%C3%A7ois_Demachy" title="François Demachy">François Demachy</a></li>

<li><a href="Bertrand_Duchaufour" title="Bertrand Duchaufour">Bertrand Duchaufour</a></li>

<li><a href="Jean-Claude_Ellena" title="Jean-Claude Ellena">Jean-Claude Ellena</a></li>

<li><a href="Andr%C3%A9_Fraysse" title="André Fraysse">André Fraysse</a></li>

<li><a href="Olivia_Giacobetti" title="Olivia Giacobetti">Olivia Giacobetti</a></li>

<li><a href="Adolph_Goetting" title="Adolph Goetting">Adolph Goetting</a></li>

<li><a href="Sophia_Grojsman" title="Sophia Grojsman">Sophia Grojsman</a></li>

<li><a href="Jean_Kerl%C3%A9o" title="Jean Kerléo">Jean Kerléo</a></li>

<li><a href="Karyn_Khoury" title="Karyn Khoury">Karyn Khoury</a></li>

<li><a href="Francis_Kurkdjian" title="Francis Kurkdjian">Francis Kurkdjian</a></li>

<li><a href="Christophe_Laudamiel" title="Christophe Laudamiel">Christophe Laudamiel</a></li>

<li><a href="Norina_Matchabelli" title="Norina Matchabelli">Norina Matchabelli</a></li>

<li><a href="Annick_M%C3%A9nardo" title="Annick Ménardo">Annick Ménardo</a></li>

<li><a href="David_H._McConnell" title="David H. McConnell">David H. McConnell</a></li>

<li>Aien Mokhtar</li>

<li><a href="Alberto_Morillas" title="Alberto Morillas">Alberto Morillas</a></li>

<li><a href="Patricia_de_Nicola%C3%AF" title="Patricia de Nicolaï">Patricia de Nicolaï</a></li>

<li><a href="Jacques_Polge" title="Jacques Polge">Jacques Polge</a></li>

<li><a href="Henri_Robert" title="Henri Robert">Henri Robert</a></li>

<li><a href="Dominique_Ropion" title="Dominique Ropion">Dominique Ropion</a></li>

<li><a href="Maurice_Roucel" title="Maurice Roucel">Maurice Roucel</a></li>

<li><a href="Christopher_Sheldrake" title="Christopher Sheldrake">Christopher Sheldrake</a></li>

<li><a href="Olivier_Cresp" title="Olivier Cresp">Olivier Cresp</a></li>

<li><a href="Thierry_Wasser" title="Thierry Wasser">Thierry Wasser</a></li>

<li><a href="Edmond_Roudnitska" title="Edmond Roudnitska">Edmond Roudnitska</a></li></ul></div>

<ul><li><a href="Aromachologist" class="mw-redirect" title="Aromachologist">Aromachologist</a></li>

<li><a href="ISIPCA" title="ISIPCA">ISIPCA</a></li>

<li><a href="Universit%C3%A9_Europ%C3%A9enne_des_Senteurs_%26_Saveurs" title="Université Européenne des Senteurs & Saveurs">Université Européenne des Senteurs & Saveurs</a></li></ul>

<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="References">References</h2></div>

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</style><cite id="CITEREFGlen_O._Brechbill" class="citation web cs1">Glen O. Brechbill. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20110627075341/http://www.perfumerbook.com/The%20Perfumer's%20-%20An%20Index%20to%20the%20Aromatic%20Artists.pdf">"The Perfumers - An Index to the Aromatic Artists"</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span>. <i>Perfumerbook.com</i>. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.perfumerbook.com/The%20Perfumer's%20-%20An%20Index%20to%20the%20Aromatic%20Artists.pdf">the original</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span> on 2011-06-27<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">2017-06-24</span></span>.</cite></span>

</li>

<li id="cite_note-2"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-2">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFLew2023" class="citation web cs1">Lew, Jennifer (3 March 2023). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://karlwinters.com/perfumers/">"Fragrance Is An Art - Understanding the Role of a Perfumer"</a>. <i>Karl Winters</i>.</cite></span>

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<li id="cite_note-3"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-3">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFPerfumersWorld" class="citation web cs1">PerfumersWorld. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.perfumersworld.com/perfumery-school">"Perfumery School | PerfumersWorld"</a>. <i>Perfumersworld.com</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">2016-12-04</span></span>.</cite></span>

</li>

<li id="cite_note-4"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-4">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFMoulton2024" class="citation news cs1">Moulton, Nicola (2024-05-24). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.ft.com/content/c694f27d-e37a-4102-b87e-596be38b6fc8">"Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud's guide to Grasse"</a>. <i>Financial Times</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">2024-07-17</span></span>.</cite></span>

</li>

<li id="cite_note-Burr-5"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-Burr_5-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFBurr,_Chandler2003" class="citation book cs1">Burr, Chandler (2003). <span class="id-lock-registration" title="Free registration required"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/emperorofscentst00burr"><i>The Emperor of Scent: A Story of Perfume, Obsession, and the Last Mystery of the Senses</i></a></span>. New York: Random House. <a href="ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <bdi>978-0-375-50797-7</bdi>.</cite></span>

</li>

<li id="cite_note-6"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-6">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><cite id="CITEREFHojlo2023" class="citation journal cs1">Hojlo, Anne-Sophie (23 February 2023). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://mag.bynez.com/en/reports/reinventing-perfumery-discourse/behind-the-scenes-of-the-creative-process-has-the-time-come-for-perfume-credits/">"Behind the scenes of the creative process: has the time come for perfume credits?"</a>. <i>By Nez</i>.</cite></span>

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<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="External_links">External links</h2></div>

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<div class="side-box-text plainlist">Wikimedia Commons has media related to <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Perfume" class="extiw external" title="commons:Perfume"><span style="font-style:italic; font-weight:bold;">Perfume</span></a>.</div></div>

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<ul><li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://bsp.org.uk/">The British Society of Perfumers</a></li>

<li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.scentculture.tube">Scent Culture Institute</a></li></ul>

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</style><div id="Perfumes444" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a href="Perfume" title="Perfume">Perfumes</a></div></th></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Overview</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">

<ul><li><a href="History_of_perfume" title="History of perfume">History</a></li>

<li><a href="List_of_perfumes" title="List of perfumes">List of perfumes</a></li></ul>

</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Types</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">

<ul><li><a href="Solid_perfume" title="Solid perfume">Solid perfume</a></li>

<li><a href="Eau_de_Cologne" title="Eau de Cologne">Eau de Cologne</a></li>

<li><a href="Eau_de_toilette" title="Eau de toilette">Eau de toilette</a></li>

<li><a href="List_of_essential_oils" title="List of essential oils">Essential oils</a></li>

<li><a href="Pomander" title="Pomander">Pomander</a></li>

<li><a href="Chypre" title="Chypre">Chypre</a></li>

<li><a href="Foug%C3%A8re" title="Fougère">Fougère</a></li></ul>

</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Ingredients</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">

<ul><li><a href="Perfume#Plant_sources" title="Perfume">Plant sources</a> including <a href="Herbal_distillate" title="Herbal distillate">Herbal distillates</a></li>

<li><a href="Perfume#Animal_sources" title="Perfume">Animal sources</a></li>

<li><a href="Aroma_compound" title="Aroma compound">Synthetic</a></li></ul>

</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Science</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">

<ul><li><a href="Aromachology" title="Aromachology">Aromachology</a></li>

<li><a href="Fragrance_wheel" title="Fragrance wheel">Fragrance wheel</a></li>

<li><a href="Fragrance_extraction" title="Fragrance extraction">Fragrance extraction</a></li>

<li><a href="Scentography" title="Scentography">Scentography</a></li></ul>

</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Professions</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">

</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Organizations</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">

<ul><li><a href="Fragrance_Museum" title="Fragrance Museum">Fragrance Museum</a></li>

<li><i><a href="Fragrances_of_the_World" title="Fragrances of the World">Fragrances of the World</a></i></li>

<li><a href="International_Fragrance_Association" title="International Fragrance Association">International Fragrance Association</a></li>

<li><a href="Mus%C3%A9e_du_Parfum" title="Musée du Parfum">Musée du Parfum</a></li>

<li><a href="Osmoth%C3%A8que" title="Osmothèque">Osmothèque</a></li>

<li><a href="Research_Institute_of_Fragrance_Materials" title="Research Institute of Fragrance Materials">Research Institute of Fragrance Materials</a></li>

<li><a href="Th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre-Mus%C3%A9e_des_Capucines" title="Théâtre-Musée des Capucines">Théâtre-Musée des Capucines</a></li>

<li><a href="The_Fragrance_Foundation" title="The Fragrance Foundation">The Fragrance Foundation</a></li>

<li><a href="ISIPCA" title="ISIPCA">ISIPCA</a></li>

<li><a href="Basenotes" title="Basenotes">Basenotes</a></li></ul>

</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">People</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">

<ul><li><a href="Ernest_Beaux" title="Ernest Beaux">Ernest Beaux</a></li>

<li><a href="Coco_Chanel" title="Coco Chanel">Coco Chanel</a></li>

<li><a href="Fran%C3%A7ois_Coty" title="François Coty">François Coty</a></li>

<li><a href="Ernest_Daltroff" title="Ernest Daltroff">Ernest Daltroff</a></li>

<li><a href="Michael_Edwards_(fragrance_expert)" title="Michael Edwards (fragrance expert)">Michael Edwards</a></li>

<li><a href="Johann_Maria_Farina" title="Johann Maria Farina">Johann Maria Farina</a></li>

<li><a href="Jacques_Guerlain" title="Jacques Guerlain">Jacques Guerlain</a></li>

<li><a href="Luca_Turin" title="Luca Turin">Luca Turin</a></li>

<li><a href="Edmond_Roudnitska" title="Edmond Roudnitska">Edmond Roudnitska</a></li></ul>

</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Companies</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">

<ul><li><a href="Parfums_Caron" title="Parfums Caron">Caron</a></li>

<li><a href="Firmenich" title="Firmenich">Firmenich</a></li>

<li><a href="Frutarom" title="Frutarom">Frutarom</a></li>

<li><a href="Givaudan" title="Givaudan">Givaudan</a></li>

<li><a href="International_Flavors_%26_Fragrances" title="International Flavors & Fragrances">International Flavors & Fragrances</a></li>

<li><a href="Robertet" class="mw-redirect" title="Robertet">Robertet</a></li>

<li><a href="Sensient_Technologies" title="Sensient Technologies">Sensient Flavors & Fragrances Group</a></li>

<li><a href="Symrise" title="Symrise">Symrise</a></li>

<li><a href="T._Hasegawa" title="T. Hasegawa">T. Hasegawa</a></li>

<li><a href="Takasago_International_Corporation" title="Takasago International Corporation">Takasago</a></li></ul>

</div></td></tr><tr><td class="navbox-abovebelow hlist" colspan="2" style="font-weight:bold;"><div>

<ul><li><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><span title="Category"></span></span> Category</li>

<li><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><span title="Commons page"></span></span> <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Perfumes" class="extiw external" title="commons:Category:Perfumes">Commons</a></li>

<li><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"></span> <a href="https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Perfume" class="extiw external" title="wikt:Perfume">Wiktionary</a></li></ul>

</div></td></tr></tbody></table></div>

<div class="navbox-styles"></div><div role="navigation" class="navbox authority-control" aria-label="Navbox390" style="padding:3px"><table class="nowraplinks hlist navbox-inner" style="border-spacing:0;background:transparent;color:inherit"><tbody><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Authority control databases: National </th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"><ul><li><span class="uid"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://d-nb.info/gnd/7861082-5">Germany</a></span></li></ul></div></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><div><div class="zim-footer">

This article is issued from <a class="external text" title="Last edited on 2025-05-29" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/?title=Perfumer&oldid=1292909085">Wikipedia</a>. The text is available under <a class="external text" href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/deed.en">Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0</a> unless otherwise noted. Additional terms may apply for the media files.

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